混和方式对色纺纱质量和织物风格的影响
FABURIQI:2020-09-09 16:08
SEFANGSHASHIYIZHONGTONGGUOXIANXIANWEIRANSEHOUHUNSEFANGSHADEYOUSESHAXIAN,JUBEINENGHAODI、RANLIAOSHANGRANLVGAODENGYOUDIAN,TONGSHITONGGUOHUNSEFANGSHASHIDUIYOUSEYUANLIAODEZENGJIAN,KEZUIXIAOXIANDUKONGZHISECHA。ZAISEFANGZHIWUSHANGCHENGXIANCHUSHISHANG、MENGLONGDELITIXIAOGUO,SHIXIUXIANFUZHUANGMIANLIAOJIZHUANGSHIYONGCHANPINDEYUANLIAOZHIYI。MUQIANKUAISHISHANG“Fast Fashion”DELIUXINGDUISEFANGSHADEXUQIULIANGRIYIZENGJIA,DANYEFUYULEDINGDANHUASEPINZHONGDUO、JIAOHUOZHOUQIDUANDENGYAOQIU。RUHEZAIDUANSHIJIANNEIZUODAOKUAISUFANYINGKEHUXUQIUSHIYIGENANTI。YINCI,DUIZUIXINLIUXINGSECAIHEFENGGEDEBAWOXIANDEYOUWEIZHONGYAO。BENWENCONGSEFANGGONGYISHANG,JIUMUQIANCHANGJIANDEBUTONGHUNHEFANGSHISUOCHANSHENGDEFENGGEXIAOGUOJINXINGSHIYANFENXI,BINGZUOYITANTAO。
1 试验原料及工艺流程
BENSHIYANZHUYAOKAOCHAZAITONGZHONGYANSE、XIANGTONGSELIANG,XIANGTONGXIDUXIA,BUTONGFANGSHAGONGXUDUIZUIZHONGCHENGSHAPINZHIYIJIZHIWUFENGGEXINIDUDEYINGXIANG,RUQIHENGCHENGDUDENG[2]。XUYAOSHUOMINGDESHI,YOUYUGONGYITESHUXING[3],MOUXIETEDINGQINGKUANGXIA,HANSEHUIYOUYIDINGXIANZHI,RUSAILUOFANGFANGSHAFANGSHI,ZHINENGZUOCHENG50%HANSELIANG,YINCIGEGESHIYANHUIYOUBUTONGDESHENQIANQINGKUANG,DANDUIYUBIJIAOZHIWUFENGGEHECHENGSHAXINGNENGJIHUMEIYOUYINGXIANG[4]。SHIYANXUANZEJINGDIANBAIDADEHEI、BAIMIANXIANWEIYUANLIAO,ZUIZHONGCHENGSHAXIDUJUNWEIC 19.7 tex。
BENWENZHUYAOYANJIUHUNMIAN、SHUMIAN、BINGTIAO、CUSHA、XISHAGONGXUDUIHEI、BAILIANGZHONGSEMIANCHENGSHAFENGGESHIXIANFANGSHIJIPINZHIDEYINGXIANG。SUOYONGDEBAIMIANWEITONGYIPICIXINJIANGBAIMIAN,HEIMIANYIYONGTONGYISEGUANGSEMIAN。SHIYANZHAOPIANYUANLIAOSEGUANGTIXIANCHUDECHAYIZHUYAOSHIYOUCAIGUANGHUOPAISHEJIAODUDAOZHI,ERDUIYUCHENGSHAZHIBIAOHEFENGGEBIANBIEJIWUYINGXIANG。FANGSHAGONGYILIUCHENG:HUNMIAN、SHUMIANBINGTIAOCUSHAXISHALUOTONGZHIBU。
2 不同混和方式试验
2.1 HUNMIAN、SHUMIANZUOWEIGUANJIANYANSEHUNHEGONGXU
SHIYANMUDESHIZAIHUNMIANHESHUMIANGONGXUSHIXIANSEFANGFENGGE。HEIMIANHEBAIMIANCHUBUHUNSESHIZAIHUNMIANGONGXU,DANCISHISHIYIXIAOSHUTIAOXINGSHICUNZAI,ZHICHENGDEMIANJUANHUNSEBUJUNYUNBUCHEDI。JINGGUOHOUXUDESHUMIANJISHULI,HEI、BAIMIANYOULESHIZHIXINGDEHUNHE,MIANXIANWEISHENZHIZHUANGTAIDEYIGAISHAN,ZAIJINGGUODUOCIBINGTIAOHOUZHICHENGCUSHAZAIFANGSHA、LUOTONG、ZHIBU。
BENSHIYANCAIQULIANGZHONGFANGAN,FANGAN1JIANGHEIMIAN∶BAIMIANWEI25∶75FANGSHIHUNHE;FANGAN2JIANGHEIMIAN∶BAIMIANWEI75∶25FANGSHIHUNHE。RUSHANGSUOSHU,ZAIJINXINGSHUMIAN、BINGTIAO、CUSHA、XISHA、LUOTONG,ZUIHOUCAIYONGYUANJIZHICHENGPUTONGPINGWENBU。
2.2 BINGTIAOZUOWEIGUANJIANYANSEHUNHEGONGXU
SHIYANMUDESHIZAIBINGTIAOGONGXUSHIXIANSEFANGFENGGE。CHUANTONGBAISHASHENGCHANGUOCHENGZHONG,DUOCIBINGTIAOMUDEZAIYUHUNYUNXIANWEIDEHUANGBAIDU,ZENGQIANGXIANWEIDESHENZHIDU,ZUIZHONGGAISHANCHENGSHATIAOGAN。SEFANGLINGYUCHUDADAOYISHANGMUDEWAI,HAIKEPINGCIDUIYANSEJINXINGCHAYIHUAFENPEI。BENCISHIYANZHUYAOTAOLUNHEI、BAIMIANTIAOLIANGBIANFENDEFANGSHI(JIHEI、BAIMIANTIAOWUJIAOCHA),SHIXIANFENGGECHAYIHUA。
BENSHIYANCAIQULIANGZHONGFANGAN:FANGAN3WEI2GENHEIMIANTIAO+6GENBAIMIANTIAO;FANGAN4WEI4GENHEIMIANTIAO+4GENBAIMIANTIAO,FENBIEJINGGUOCUSHA、XISHA、LUOTONG,ZUIHOUCAIYONGYUANJIZHICHENGPUTONGPINGWENBU。
2.3 CUSHAZUOWEIGUANJIANYANSEHUNHEGONGXU
SHIYANMUDESHIZAICUSHAGONGXUSHIXIANSEFANGFENGGE。CUSHA、TIAOZIDEJIEGOUHEZHUANGTAI,RUYANSE、NIANDU、DINGLIANGCHAYIDA,BINGHEHOUJINGGUOQIANSHENHEJIANIANCHENGSHA,NENGSHIXIANXINXINGDESEFANGFENGGE[5]。BENSHIYANHEXINZAIYUJIANGYISEYOUNIANDUDECUSHAHEWUNIANDUDEMIANTIAOZAICUSHAGONGXUZHICHENGDUOSEHUNCAICUSHA。
SHOUXIANYUQIANSHENXINGNENG,BENSHIYANCAIQULIANGZHONGFANGAN:FANGAN5WEIHEICUSHA(10 g/10 m)+BAITIAOZI(15 g/5 m),BAIFANGFANGXIANGBUXIAN,HANSELIANG25%;FANGAN6WEIBAICUSHA(10 g/10 m)+HEITIAOZI(15 g/5 m),BAIFANGFANGXIANGBUXIAN,HANSELIANG75%。GEFANGANFENBIEJINGGUOXISHA、LUOTONG,ZUIHOUCAIYONGYUANJIZHICHENGPUTONGPINGWENBU。
2.4 XISHAZUOWEIGUANJIANYANSEHUNHEGONGXU
SHIYANMUDESHIZAIXISHAGONGXUSHIXIANSEFANGFENGGE,ZHEISHIBIJIAOCHANGJIANDEFANGSHAFANGFA。RUCHANGGUIDE“BAICUSHA+BAICUSHA”DESAILUOFANGFANGSHI,ZHUYAOYONGLAIGAISHANSHAXIANCHENGSHATIAOGAN、MAOYUXINGNENGYIJIQIANGDUDENGWULIZHIBIAO。RUOCAIYONG“HEICUSHA+BAICUSHA”DESAILUOFANGFANGSHI,CHULENENGGAISHANSHAXIANWULIZHIBIAOWAI,SHAXIANHEZUIZHONGMIANLIAOHAINENGSHOUDAOTESHUFENGGEXIAOGUO。
SHOUXIANYUQIANSHENXINGNENGDENGYINSU,BENSHIYANJINCAIQUYIZHONGSHIYANFANGAN:FANGAN7WEIHEICUSHA(4.1 g/10 m)+BAICUSHA(4.1 g/10 m),SAILUOFANGSHAFANGSHIFANG19.7 texSHA,LUOTONG,ZUIHOUCAIYONGYUANJIZHICHENGPUTONGPINGWENBU。
3 试验结果与分析
WULIZHIBIAOCESHIZHUYAOKAOCHABUTONGHANSELIANGSHIDUANLIEQIANGDU、TIAOGANCVZHIHEMAOYUZHISHU;CHENGSHAZHIWUFENGGEPANBIEZHUYAOKAOCHABUTONGSHIYANFANGANXIACHENGSHAZHIWUFENGGEZHUANGKUANG。ANZHAOFENGGEBUYUNCHENGDU,ZHUYAOFENWEI3GEJIBIE:JUNYUNFENBUFENGGE、KELIZHUANGFENGGE、TIAOZHUANGQIHENGFENGGE。FANGAN1DAOFANGAN7DEZUIZHONGCESHIZHIBIAOHEFENGGEPANBIERUBIAO1SUOSHI,ZHIWUFENGGERUTU1SUOSHI。
CONGBIAO1DESHUJUFENXIKEZHI,ZAIWULIZHIBIAOFANGMIAN,TONGXIDU、TONGYIYANSEHUNHEGONGXUQINGKUANGXIA,RUFANGAN1HEFANGAN2,YANSESHEN,DUANLIEQIANGDUSHAOJIANGDI,ERTIAOGAN、MAOYUZHISHUBIANHUAHENXIAO。BIAOMINGCISHIGONGXUYINSUDUISHAXIANQIANGDUYOUYINGXIANG,ERDUITIAOGANHEMAOYUFANGMIANJIWUYINGXIANG。FANGAN3、4HEFANGAN5、6JIBENLEISI。TONGXIDU,BUTONGYANSEHUNHEGONGXUQINGKUANGXIA,RUFANGAN5、6、7,JIAOFANGAN1、2、3、4DUANLIEQIANGDUYOUYIDINGYOUSHI,MAOYUZHILVEYOUZENGJIA,ERTIAOGANCVEHUA。ZHEIZHUYAOSHIYINWEI“CUSHA+MIANTIAO”、“CUSHA+CUSHA”TESHUDEFANGSHAGONGYIFANGFAHECHENGSHAJIEGOUSUOZHI。DUIYUFENGGE,CONGFANGAN1DAOFANGAN7,FENGGEBIAOXIANWEI“WUQIHENGWUQIHENGRUOQIHENGQIANGLIEQIHENGRUOQIHENGRUOQIHENGWUQIHENG”DEBIANHUAQUSHI。JUTILAISHUO,FANGAN1HEFANGAN2YOUYUYANSESHIZAIHUNMIAN、SHUMIANHUNYUN,JINGGUOHOUDAOGONGXUDEQIANSHEN,YANSEBEIJINYIBUHUNYUN,ZUIZHONGBIAOXIANWEIJUNYUNSEFANGFENGGE;ERFANGAN3HEFANGAN4FENBIEBIAOXIANCHURUOTIAOZHUANG、HEIBAIQIHENGHETIAOZHUANG、QIANGLIEHEIBAIQIHENG,ZHUYAOYINWEIHEIMIANTIAOHEBAIMIANTIAOBINGTIAOSHIBEIFENBIANFANGZHI,JINGHOUDAOQIANSHENHEIBAIFENMINGDEZHUANGKUANGDEDAOYANXU,ZUIZHONGXISHAZHIWUCHENGXIANHEIBAIQIHENGDEFENGGE。ZHIDEZHUYIDESHIDANGHEIBAIBILIZAIFANGAN4DE“4GENHEIMIANTIAO+4GENBAIMIANTIAO”SHIBIAOXIANZUIWEIMINGXIAN。DUIYUFANGAN5HEFANGAN6,YIJUNBIAOXIANWEIHEIHEBAIRUOTIAOZHUANGQIHENG,CHENGDUJIAOFANGAN4JUNYUN,ZHUYAOYINWEIMIANTIAOYUCUSHADEDINGLIANGCHAJUDADAO3BEI,GAODINGLIANG、WUNIANDEMIANTIAODUIDIDINGLIANG、YOUYIDINGNIANDUDECUSHAXINGCHENGBAOFUXIAOGUO,DAOZHIBUMIANYANSEFENBUGENGQINGXIANGYUXIANSHIMIANTIAOYANSE,CONGERBUMIANYANSEJUYOUGENGQIANGDEJUNYUNXING(DINGLIANGCHAYUEDA,ZUIZHONGBUMIANDUIMIANTIAOYANSEXIANSHIGENGTUCHU)。DUIYUFANGAN7,WUQIHENGQIEZHUYAOBIAOXIANWEIHEIBAIKELIZHUANGTAIFENGGE,ZHEISHIYOUSAILUOFANGTONGDINGLIANGYISESHUANGCUSHADEGONGYIYUANLIYIJIHOUXUQIANSHENBEISHUXIAOJUEDING。ZONGTILAIKAN,CONGFANGAN1DAOFANGAN7,ZHIWUFENGGEJUNYUNDUCHENGXIAN“FENGGEJUNYUNFENGGERUOQIHENGFENGGEQIHENGYANZHONGFENGGERUOQIHENGFENGGEJUNYUN”DE“QIANDIZHONGJIANGAOHOUDI”DEERCIXIANGXISHUWEIFUSHUDEERCIHANSHUZHUANGTAIZOUSHI。
4 结语
ZAISEFANGMIANLIAOCHENGWEISHISHANGLIUXINGYUANSUDEQINGKUANGXIA,DUISEFANGGONGYIHECHENGSHAFENGGEDEPANDUANXIANDEYOUWEIZHONGYAO。TONGGUOYISHANGYANJIUFAXIAN,BINGTIAOGONGXUHUNSEZUIYOULIYUSHIXIANSECAIFENGGEMINGXIANHUA,QICISHICUSHAHEXISHA,ERZHIJIEZAIHUNMIAN、SHUMIANGONGXUHUNSEDEDAODEFENGGEZUIWEIJUNYUN。TONGSHI,SEFANGFANGSHABUTONGDEYANSEHUNHEGONGYIFANGSHI,RUFANGAN1DAOFANGAN7,SUIRANZAIJUTIDUIBISHIYANSHISHAXIANZHIBIAORUDUANLIEQIANGDU、MAOYUZHISHU、TIAOGANCVZHIBIANHUABUMINGXIAN,DANCONGZONGTIQUSHILAIKAN,DUANLIEQIANGDUYOUZENGJIADEQUSHI,MAOYUZHIBIAOLVEYOUZENGJIA,ERTIAOGANCVHUIEHUA。YINCI,GENJUYISHANGDESHIYANHEYANJIU,DUIBAWOSECAI、YOUSEYUANLIAOZAIBUTONGGONGXUDEBIANHUAHESHIXIAN,DUIYUYANJIUSEFANG、TIGAOSEFANGFUJIAZHILAISHUO,JUYOUJIEJIANJIAZHI。