SEFANGSHASHIYIZHONGTONGGUOXIANXIANWEIRANSEHOUHUNSEFANGSHADEYOUSESHAXIAN，JUBEINENGHAODI、RANLIAOSHANGRANLVGAODENGYOUDIAN，TONGSHITONGGUOHUNSEFANGSHASHIDUIYOUSEYUANLIAODEZENGJIAN，KEZUIXIAOXIANDUKONGZHISECHA。ZAISEFANGZHIWUSHANGCHENGXIANCHUSHISHANG、MENGLONGDELITIXIAOGUO，SHIXIUXIANFUZHUANGMIANLIAOJIZHUANGSHIYONGCHANPINDEYUANLIAOZHIYI。MUQIANKUAISHISHANG“Fast Fashion”DELIUXINGDUISEFANGSHADEXUQIULIANGRIYIZENGJIA，DANYEFUYULEDINGDANHUASEPINZHONGDUO、JIAOHUOZHOUQIDUANDENGYAOQIU。RUHEZAIDUANSHIJIANNEIZUODAOKUAISUFANYINGKEHUXUQIUSHIYIGENANTI。YINCI，DUIZUIXINLIUXINGSECAIHEFENGGEDEBAWOXIANDEYOUWEIZHONGYAO。BENWENCONGSEFANGGONGYISHANG，JIUMUQIANCHANGJIANDEBUTONGHUNHEFANGSHISUOCHANSHENGDEFENGGEXIAOGUOJINXINGSHIYANFENXI,BINGZUOYITANTAO。

1 试验原料及工艺流程

BENSHIYANZHUYAOKAOCHAZAITONGZHONGYANSE、XIANGTONGSELIANG，XIANGTONGXIDUXIA，BUTONGFANGSHAGONGXUDUIZUIZHONGCHENGSHAPINZHIYIJIZHIWUFENGGEXINIDUDEYINGXIANG，RUQIHENGCHENGDUDENG[2]。XUYAOSHUOMINGDESHI，YOUYUGONGYITESHUXING[3]，MOUXIETEDINGQINGKUANGXIA，HANSEHUIYOUYIDINGXIANZHI，RUSAILUOFANGFANGSHAFANGSHI，ZHINENGZUOCHENG50%HANSELIANG，YINCIGEGESHIYANHUIYOUBUTONGDESHENQIANQINGKUANG，DANDUIYUBIJIAOZHIWUFENGGEHECHENGSHAXINGNENGJIHUMEIYOUYINGXIANG[4]。SHIYANXUANZEJINGDIANBAIDADEHEI、BAIMIANXIANWEIYUANLIAO，ZUIZHONGCHENGSHAXIDUJUNWEIC 19.7 tex。

BENWENZHUYAOYANJIUHUNMIAN、SHUMIAN、BINGTIAO、CUSHA、XISHAGONGXUDUIHEI、BAILIANGZHONGSEMIANCHENGSHAFENGGESHIXIANFANGSHIJIPINZHIDEYINGXIANG。SUOYONGDEBAIMIANWEITONGYIPICIXINJIANGBAIMIAN，HEIMIANYIYONGTONGYISEGUANGSEMIAN。SHIYANZHAOPIANYUANLIAOSEGUANGTIXIANCHUDECHAYIZHUYAOSHIYOUCAIGUANGHUOPAISHEJIAODUDAOZHI，ERDUIYUCHENGSHAZHIBIAOHEFENGGEBIANBIEJIWUYINGXIANG。FANGSHAGONGYILIUCHENG：HUNMIAN、SHUMIANBINGTIAOCUSHAXISHALUOTONGZHIBU。

2 不同混和方式试验

2.1 HUNMIAN、SHUMIANZUOWEIGUANJIANYANSEHUNHEGONGXU

SHIYANMUDESHIZAIHUNMIANHESHUMIANGONGXUSHIXIANSEFANGFENGGE。HEIMIANHEBAIMIANCHUBUHUNSESHIZAIHUNMIANGONGXU，DANCISHISHIYIXIAOSHUTIAOXINGSHICUNZAI，ZHICHENGDEMIANJUANHUNSEBUJUNYUNBUCHEDI。JINGGUOHOUXUDESHUMIANJISHULI，HEI、BAIMIANYOULESHIZHIXINGDEHUNHE，MIANXIANWEISHENZHIZHUANGTAIDEYIGAISHAN，ZAIJINGGUODUOCIBINGTIAOHOUZHICHENGCUSHAZAIFANGSHA、LUOTONG、ZHIBU。

BENSHIYANCAIQULIANGZHONGFANGAN，FANGAN1JIANGHEIMIAN∶BAIMIANWEI25∶75FANGSHIHUNHE；FANGAN2JIANGHEIMIAN∶BAIMIANWEI75∶25FANGSHIHUNHE。RUSHANGSUOSHU，ZAIJINXINGSHUMIAN、BINGTIAO、CUSHA、XISHA、LUOTONG，ZUIHOUCAIYONGYUANJIZHICHENGPUTONGPINGWENBU。

2.2 BINGTIAOZUOWEIGUANJIANYANSEHUNHEGONGXU

SHIYANMUDESHIZAIBINGTIAOGONGXUSHIXIANSEFANGFENGGE。CHUANTONGBAISHASHENGCHANGUOCHENGZHONG，DUOCIBINGTIAOMUDEZAIYUHUNYUNXIANWEIDEHUANGBAIDU，ZENGQIANGXIANWEIDESHENZHIDU，ZUIZHONGGAISHANCHENGSHATIAOGAN。SEFANGLINGYUCHUDADAOYISHANGMUDEWAI，HAIKEPINGCIDUIYANSEJINXINGCHAYIHUAFENPEI。BENCISHIYANZHUYAOTAOLUNHEI、BAIMIANTIAOLIANGBIANFENDEFANGSHI(JIHEI、BAIMIANTIAOWUJIAOCHA)，SHIXIANFENGGECHAYIHUA。

BENSHIYANCAIQULIANGZHONGFANGAN：FANGAN3WEI2GENHEIMIANTIAO+6GENBAIMIANTIAO；FANGAN4WEI4GENHEIMIANTIAO+4GENBAIMIANTIAO，FENBIEJINGGUOCUSHA、XISHA、LUOTONG，ZUIHOUCAIYONGYUANJIZHICHENGPUTONGPINGWENBU。

2.3 CUSHAZUOWEIGUANJIANYANSEHUNHEGONGXU

SHIYANMUDESHIZAICUSHAGONGXUSHIXIANSEFANGFENGGE。CUSHA、TIAOZIDEJIEGOUHEZHUANGTAI，RUYANSE、NIANDU、DINGLIANGCHAYIDA，BINGHEHOUJINGGUOQIANSHENHEJIANIANCHENGSHA，NENGSHIXIANXINXINGDESEFANGFENGGE[5]。BENSHIYANHEXINZAIYUJIANGYISEYOUNIANDUDECUSHAHEWUNIANDUDEMIANTIAOZAICUSHAGONGXUZHICHENGDUOSEHUNCAICUSHA。

SHOUXIANYUQIANSHENXINGNENG，BENSHIYANCAIQULIANGZHONGFANGAN：FANGAN5WEIHEICUSHA(10 g/10 m)+BAITIAOZI(15 g/5 m)，BAIFANGFANGXIANGBUXIAN，HANSELIANG25%；FANGAN6WEIBAICUSHA(10 g/10 m)+HEITIAOZI(15 g/5 m)，BAIFANGFANGXIANGBUXIAN，HANSELIANG75%。GEFANGANFENBIEJINGGUOXISHA、LUOTONG，ZUIHOUCAIYONGYUANJIZHICHENGPUTONGPINGWENBU。

2.4 XISHAZUOWEIGUANJIANYANSEHUNHEGONGXU

SHIYANMUDESHIZAIXISHAGONGXUSHIXIANSEFANGFENGGE，ZHEISHIBIJIAOCHANGJIANDEFANGSHAFANGFA。RUCHANGGUIDE“BAICUSHA+BAICUSHA”DESAILUOFANGFANGSHI，ZHUYAOYONGLAIGAISHANSHAXIANCHENGSHATIAOGAN、MAOYUXINGNENGYIJIQIANGDUDENGWULIZHIBIAO。RUOCAIYONG“HEICUSHA+BAICUSHA”DESAILUOFANGFANGSHI，CHULENENGGAISHANSHAXIANWULIZHIBIAOWAI，SHAXIANHEZUIZHONGMIANLIAOHAINENGSHOUDAOTESHUFENGGEXIAOGUO。

SHOUXIANYUQIANSHENXINGNENGDENGYINSU，BENSHIYANJINCAIQUYIZHONGSHIYANFANGAN：FANGAN7WEIHEICUSHA(4.1 g/10 m)+BAICUSHA(4.1 g/10 m)，SAILUOFANGSHAFANGSHIFANG19.7 texSHA，LUOTONG，ZUIHOUCAIYONGYUANJIZHICHENGPUTONGPINGWENBU。

3 试验结果与分析

WULIZHIBIAOCESHIZHUYAOKAOCHABUTONGHANSELIANGSHIDUANLIEQIANGDU、TIAOGANCVZHIHEMAOYUZHISHU；CHENGSHAZHIWUFENGGEPANBIEZHUYAOKAOCHABUTONGSHIYANFANGANXIACHENGSHAZHIWUFENGGEZHUANGKUANG。ANZHAOFENGGEBUYUNCHENGDU，ZHUYAOFENWEI3GEJIBIE：JUNYUNFENBUFENGGE、KELIZHUANGFENGGE、TIAOZHUANGQIHENGFENGGE。FANGAN1DAOFANGAN7DEZUIZHONGCESHIZHIBIAOHEFENGGEPANBIERUBIAO1SUOSHI，ZHIWUFENGGERUTU1SUOSHI。

CONGBIAO1DESHUJUFENXIKEZHI，ZAIWULIZHIBIAOFANGMIAN，TONGXIDU、TONGYIYANSEHUNHEGONGXUQINGKUANGXIA，RUFANGAN1HEFANGAN2，YANSESHEN，DUANLIEQIANGDUSHAOJIANGDI，ERTIAOGAN、MAOYUZHISHUBIANHUAHENXIAO。BIAOMINGCISHIGONGXUYINSUDUISHAXIANQIANGDUYOUYINGXIANG，ERDUITIAOGANHEMAOYUFANGMIANJIWUYINGXIANG。FANGAN3、4HEFANGAN5、6JIBENLEISI。TONGXIDU，BUTONGYANSEHUNHEGONGXUQINGKUANGXIA，RUFANGAN5、6、7，JIAOFANGAN1、2、3、4DUANLIEQIANGDUYOUYIDINGYOUSHI，MAOYUZHILVEYOUZENGJIA，ERTIAOGANCVEHUA。ZHEIZHUYAOSHIYINWEI“CUSHA+MIANTIAO”、“CUSHA+CUSHA”TESHUDEFANGSHAGONGYIFANGFAHECHENGSHAJIEGOUSUOZHI。DUIYUFENGGE，CONGFANGAN1DAOFANGAN7，FENGGEBIAOXIANWEI“WUQIHENGWUQIHENGRUOQIHENGQIANGLIEQIHENGRUOQIHENGRUOQIHENGWUQIHENG”DEBIANHUAQUSHI。JUTILAISHUO，FANGAN1HEFANGAN2YOUYUYANSESHIZAIHUNMIAN、SHUMIANHUNYUN，JINGGUOHOUDAOGONGXUDEQIANSHEN，YANSEBEIJINYIBUHUNYUN，ZUIZHONGBIAOXIANWEIJUNYUNSEFANGFENGGE；ERFANGAN3HEFANGAN4FENBIEBIAOXIANCHURUOTIAOZHUANG、HEIBAIQIHENGHETIAOZHUANG、QIANGLIEHEIBAIQIHENG，ZHUYAOYINWEIHEIMIANTIAOHEBAIMIANTIAOBINGTIAOSHIBEIFENBIANFANGZHI，JINGHOUDAOQIANSHENHEIBAIFENMINGDEZHUANGKUANGDEDAOYANXU，ZUIZHONGXISHAZHIWUCHENGXIANHEIBAIQIHENGDEFENGGE。ZHIDEZHUYIDESHIDANGHEIBAIBILIZAIFANGAN4DE“4GENHEIMIANTIAO+4GENBAIMIANTIAO”SHIBIAOXIANZUIWEIMINGXIAN。DUIYUFANGAN5HEFANGAN6，YIJUNBIAOXIANWEIHEIHEBAIRUOTIAOZHUANGQIHENG，CHENGDUJIAOFANGAN4JUNYUN，ZHUYAOYINWEIMIANTIAOYUCUSHADEDINGLIANGCHAJUDADAO3BEI，GAODINGLIANG、WUNIANDEMIANTIAODUIDIDINGLIANG、YOUYIDINGNIANDUDECUSHAXINGCHENGBAOFUXIAOGUO，DAOZHIBUMIANYANSEFENBUGENGQINGXIANGYUXIANSHIMIANTIAOYANSE，CONGERBUMIANYANSEJUYOUGENGQIANGDEJUNYUNXING(DINGLIANGCHAYUEDA，ZUIZHONGBUMIANDUIMIANTIAOYANSEXIANSHIGENGTUCHU)。DUIYUFANGAN7，WUQIHENGQIEZHUYAOBIAOXIANWEIHEIBAIKELIZHUANGTAIFENGGE，ZHEISHIYOUSAILUOFANGTONGDINGLIANGYISESHUANGCUSHADEGONGYIYUANLIYIJIHOUXUQIANSHENBEISHUXIAOJUEDING。ZONGTILAIKAN，CONGFANGAN1DAOFANGAN7，ZHIWUFENGGEJUNYUNDUCHENGXIAN“FENGGEJUNYUNFENGGERUOQIHENGFENGGEQIHENGYANZHONGFENGGERUOQIHENGFENGGEJUNYUN”DE“QIANDIZHONGJIANGAOHOUDI”DEERCIXIANGXISHUWEIFUSHUDEERCIHANSHUZHUANGTAIZOUSHI。

4 结语

ZAISEFANGMIANLIAOCHENGWEISHISHANGLIUXINGYUANSUDEQINGKUANGXIA，DUISEFANGGONGYIHECHENGSHAFENGGEDEPANDUANXIANDEYOUWEIZHONGYAO。TONGGUOYISHANGYANJIUFAXIAN，BINGTIAOGONGXUHUNSEZUIYOULIYUSHIXIANSECAIFENGGEMINGXIANHUA，QICISHICUSHAHEXISHA，ERZHIJIEZAIHUNMIAN、SHUMIANGONGXUHUNSEDEDAODEFENGGEZUIWEIJUNYUN。TONGSHI，SEFANGFANGSHABUTONGDEYANSEHUNHEGONGYIFANGSHI，RUFANGAN1DAOFANGAN7，SUIRANZAIJUTIDUIBISHIYANSHISHAXIANZHIBIAORUDUANLIEQIANGDU、MAOYUZHISHU、TIAOGANCVZHIBIANHUABUMINGXIAN，DANCONGZONGTIQUSHILAIKAN，DUANLIEQIANGDUYOUZENGJIADEQUSHI，MAOYUZHIBIAOLVEYOUZENGJIA，ERTIAOGANCVHUIEHUA。YINCI，GENJUYISHANGDESHIYANHEYANJIU，DUIBAWOSECAI、YOUSEYUANLIAOZAIBUTONGGONGXUDEBIANHUAHESHIXIAN，DUIYUYANJIUSEFANG、TIGAOSEFANGFUJIAZHILAISHUO，JUYOUJIEJIANJIAZHI。