1 色纺纱调色、配色与对色的目的及其重要性

SEFANGSHAQUBIERANSESHA(PIAORANSHA)DEHEXINJINGZHENGLI，ZAIYUBUTONGYANSEDEXIANWEIHUNHEHOUCHANSHENGDEHUASEXIAOYING。TABA“SE”DEGAINIANRONGRUDAOZHENGGESHENGCHANZHONG，YINCIGAOHAODIAOSEPEISEYUDUISEGONGZUOJIUCHENGWEISHENGCHANSEFANGSHADEZHONGYAOHUANJIE。SEFANGSHACHANGDEDIAOSEPEISEBUTONGYURANSECHANGDEDIAOSEPEISE，SEFANGSHACHANGDEPEISETONGCHANGSHIZHIXUANQUYIXIEYOUSEXIANWEI，CHUDINGYIDINGBILI(PEIFANG)ZUOCHENGXIAOYANG，DADAOYUMUBIAOYANGPIN(BIAOYANG)JIBENXIANGSIDEGUOCHENG；SEFANGSHACHANGDEDIAOSETONGCHANGSHIZHIGENJUZUOCHULAIDEYANGPINYUBIAOYANGZHIJIANDEYANSECHAJU，DIAOZHENGGESEXIANWEIZHIJIANDEBILI(PEIFANG)ZAIJINXINGSHIYANG，ZHUBUJIEJINBIAOYANGYANSEDEGUOCHENG。

CONGSHIPEISEDIAOSEGONGZUODERENYUANDOUYOUTONGYANGDEGANSHOU，DUISESHIDACHUDEXIAOYANGYUBIAOYANGDEYANSEZHINENGZUODAOXIANGJINHUOWUXIANJIEJIN，SEGUANGZUODAOYIMOYIYANGSHIWANQUANBUKENENGDE[1]，JISHISHITONGPIYUANLIAOQIANHOUERCITOULIAOSHENGCHAN，YANSEYEHUIYOUYIDINGCHAYI，DANCHAYIYOUDUODANI？KAORENGONGMUCENANYILIANGHUA，ZHEISHIMUQIANPEISEDIAOSEDENANDIANSUOZAI。SHIFOUNENGDADAOKEHUYAOQIU，YINMUQIANSHANGWULIANGHUADEBIAOZHUN，ZHINENGSHUOYUEJIEJINYUEHAO。ZAISHIJIDUISECAOZUOGUOCHENGZHONG，SHENGCHANQIYERUBUNENGJISHIGENJUKEHULAIYANGZUOHAODIAOPEISEYUDAHAOXIAOYANG，JIUHUIYINGXIANGTOULIAOSHENGCHANYUJIAOHUOJINDU，YINCIZUOHAOSHENGCHANQIANDEDIAOPEISEYUDAHAOXIAOYANGDUIHAOSESHIYIXIANGSHIFENZHONGYAODEZHUNBEIGONGZUO。

CIWAI，ZAISEFANGSHAYANSEKAIFAGUOCHENGZHONG，DIAOSEYUPEISEHAISHIYIXIANGCHUANGXINXINGGONGZUO。FUZHUANGXINGYEMEINIANDOUHUITUICHUBUTONGDELIUXINGSEQUSHI，GUONEIDAXINGSEFANGSHAQIYEYEHUIDINGQIFABUSEFANGSHADELIUXINGSEQUSHI。RUGUOSEFANGSHASHENGCHANQIYENENGJINGENSEFANGSHALIUXINGQUSHI，ZUOHAOXUANSEYUDIAOPEISEGONGZUO，DIAOSE、PEISERENYUANNENGJISHIZHUAZHULIUXINGSEDEYAOSU，DIAOPEICHULINGKEHUMANYIDESECAI，JIANGHUIJIQIYEDAILAILIRUNKONGJIANDETIGAO。

CONGSHANGSHUFENXIKEZHI，ZUOHAOSEFANGSHASHENGCHANQIANDEDIAOSEPEISEYUDUISEDAYANGGONGZUOJIZAISEFANGSHASHENGCHANZHONGSUOJUZHONGYAODIWEI。GUGUONEISEFANGSHASHENGCHANDEGUGANQIYERUZHEJIANGSHENGDEHUAFU、BAILONG，SHANDONGSHENGDERUYIJITUANDENGDOUSHIFENZHONGSHIZHEIXIANGGONGZUO[2]，PEIBEIXIANJINDEDIAOPEISEYUDUISESHEBEIYIQIJIZHUANYEDEDIAOPEISEYUDAYANGDUIRENYUAN，SHEZHIZHUANMENDEDAYANGCHEJIAN，YIQUEBAODIAOPEISEYUDAYANGDUISEGONGZUOZHUNQUE、JISHIWUCHACUO。DUIYANSEPANDUANZHUNQUE，MIAOSHUZHUNQUE，PEIDUIZHUNQUE，ZESEFANGSHASHENGCHANZHONGYIDABANDEJISHUNANTIYIJINGJIEJUE。

2 色纺纱的调色与配色原理

2.1 YANSESANYAOSU

SEFANGSHASHENGCHANYAOZHONGSHIZUOHAO“SE”DEWENZHANG，YEJIUSHIXIANWEIRANSESELAODUYAOHAO，PICIJIANYANSEYAOWENDINGYIZHI，RANCHUDEYANSEYAOJINGDESHISHANG。ERYAOZUODAO“LAO、ZHUN、HAO”DEYAOQIU，PEISEYUDIAOSESHISEFANGSHASHENGCHANDEZHONGYAOQIANTI。ERDIAOPEISEDEGUANJIANSHIYAODUIGEZHONGYOUSEXIANWEISECAIDEZHENGQUEPANDING。SUIRANDIAOPEISEDEFANGFAYOUDUOZHONG，DANQIGUILVSHIXIANGTONGDE，JITONGGUOSEXIANG、MINGDU、CHUNDUSANZHEZHIJIANDEZONGHEXINGDEDUIBIYUDIAOHEDEYUNYONG[3]。

SANYAOSUSHIXIANGHULIANXIDE，SEXIANGJUEDINGYANSEDEZHI，ERLIANGDUHECHUNDUBIAOSHIDESHILIANGDEBIANHUA，RENHEYANSEZHIYAOQUEDINGLETADESEXIANG、CHUNDUHELIANGDU，JIUKEYIJINGQUEDEQUEDINGTASHISHENMESE，TANGRUOYANSESANGEYAOSUZHONGYIGEYAOSUBIANHUALE，NEIMEZHEIGEYANSEYEJIUBIANHUALE。

2.2 SECAIDEDUIBICUOSHI

YOUYUHUANJINGDEBUTONGJISHIJUESHANGDECHAYI，DIAOSE、PEISERENYUANDUIGUANCHADEWUTIJINGCHANGHUIFASHENGCUOSHIBINGZUOCHUCUOWUDEPANDUAN。YINCIZAIDIAOSEYUPEISESHI，YINGKAOLVDUISECAICUOSHIYINSU。CUOSHIYOULIANGZHONGXIANXIANG，YIZHONGSHIDUIBICUOSHIXIANXIANG，ZAIGUANCHALIANGZHONGJIYISHANGBUTONGDEBINGLIESESHI，HUIFAXIANBINGLIESEZHIJIANSEXIANG、MINGDUHUOCHUNDUFASHENGBIANHUA，YIGEYANSEDESANYAOSUDEBIANHUA，ZAIERGESESHANGTONGSHIXIANSHICHULAI，CONGERCHANSHENGTONGSHIDUIBICUOSHIXIANXIANG。LINGYIZHONGSHILIANXUDUIBICUOSHIXIANXIANG，SHIXIANDUIYIZHONGYANSEZHUSHIPIANKEHOU，XUNSUBASHIXIANZHUANYIDAOLINGYIZHONGYANSE，ZEGANDAOGAISEBIANDELVEDAIXIANJIANMOUSEDEBUSE，JIXIANKANHONGSEHOUZAIKANHUANGSE，ZEHUANGSEBIANCHENGHUANGLVSE，ZHEIJIUSHILIANXUDUIBICUOSHI，SHIYOUYUSHIJUESHENGLIPILAOSUOYINQI。

YOUYUMUQIANZAISEFANGSHASHENGCHANZHONGDUOSHUQIYEHAISHIYILAIRENGONGSHILILAIJINXINGDIAOSE、PEISEYUDUISEGONGZUO，DUISECAIPANDUANDECUOSHISHANGWUFABIMIAN，GUYAOTIGAODIAOSE、PEISEDEJINGDUYUKEXUEXING，QIFAZHANFANGXIANGSHICAIYONGJISUANJIPEISEXITONG[4]，KEKUAISUTIGONGDUOZHONGPEISEFANGAN，TIGAOPEISEXIAOLVYUSHICHANGFANYINGNENGLI，JIANGDIDUIPEISERENYUANJINGYANDEYILAIXING。

3 色纺纱打样与对色的程序与方法

3.1 SEFANGSHADAYANGYUDUISEDEMUDE

SEFANGSHADAYANGSHIJIANGBUTONGYANSEDEXIANWEIYUANLIAO，GENJUSHEJIYANGHUOKEHULAIYANGANYIDINGBILIHUNHEDIAOPEIHOU，ZAIANYIDINGDEFANGSHAGONGYILIUCHENGFANGZHICHUSHAXIANXIAOYANG，ZUIHOUTONGGUOZHIJIZHICHUPIBU(XIAOYANG)，FANGBIANYUSHEJIYANG、KEHULAIYANGDUIBIPINGDING，RUYOUCHAYIZAITONGGUOPEISELAIDIAOZHENG，ZHIDAOXIANGFUWEIZHI。YINCI，FANGSHADAYANGYUDUISEDEMUDESHIZHITONGGUOYUSHEJIYANGHUOKEHULAIYANGJINXINGDUIBI、PINGDINGYANSEYUMUBIAOSESHIFOUXIANGFU，BINGGUANCHASHAXIANDEZHILIANGSHIFOUNENGMANZUSHEJIYUKEHUDEYAOQIU，JIANSHAOMANGMUSHENGCHANDAILAIDEYUANLIAOYUSHENGCHANLANGFEI，CONGERSHIXIANCHENGBENDEKONGZHIYUSHENGCHANXIAOLVDETIGAO。

3.2 SEFANGSHADAYANGYUDUISEDECHENGXU

3.2.1 PEI SE

SEFANGSHADAYANGZHIQIANBIXUWANCHENGPEISEGONGZUO，PEISEYOUANSEKAPEISEYUANKEHULAIYANGPEISELIANGZHONG[5]。

a)ANSEKAPEISEJIAOJIANDANFANGBIAN,YINWEIDUOSHUSEFANGSHASHENGCHANQIYE，TONGGUOJIAOZHANGSHIJIANSHENGCHANDOUJILEILEYIDINGKEYONGLAIPEISEDESHUJUKU，BINGJIANLIGEZHONGSEKADANGAN，KEHUZHIYAOGENJUSEKAQUEDINGSEHAO，JIUKEANSEBISHENGCHANCHUKEHUYAOQIUDEXIAOYANG，FANGBIANRANGKEHUQUERENDUISE。

b)ANKEHULAIYANGPEISEJIUBIJIAOFUZA，WANGWANGBUYIDINGNENGCONGSEKASHANGZHAODAOXIANGTONGDESEHAO。GUBIXUXIANYAODUIKEHULAIYANGJINXINGZIXIFENXI。RULAIYANGSHISHAXIAN，YAOXIANCHAICHENGSANXIANWEI，BINGFENXIYOUJIZHONGSEXIANWEIZUCHENG。RULAIYANGSHISEZHIMIANLIAO，YAOXIANJIANGMIANLIAOZHIJIEFENJIECHENGSHAXIAN，ZAIJIANGSHAXIANFENJIECHENGXIANWEI，RANHOUQUEDINGQIXIANWEIDEZUFENYUYANSE，RUGUOFENJIEHOUDEGEZHONGSEXIANWEIZAIXIANYOUPEISEKUYIYOU，JIUKEZHIJIEQULAIPEISE；RUOMEIYOU，JIUXUXIANJINXINGXIANWEIRANSE，XIANWEIRANSESHIYAOZHUYIDESHISEGUANGYULAIYANGSEGUANGYIZHI。ZAISEFANGSHASHENGCHANZHONGPEISEBILIJIUSHIGEZHONGSEXIANWEIZUFENYUZHENGGEPEISEZUFENDEGANZHONGBAIFENBI，YEKECHENGWEISHIYIZHONGFENSECHENGZHONGFAPEISE。

PEISEYUDIAOSESHIYIXIANGJISHUXINGJIAOQIANGDEGONGZUO，XUYAOBUDUANDIJILEIJINGYAN，YOUQISHICONGSHIDIAOSEPEISERENYUANMUGUANGDEXIAOZHENGYUTONGYI，DUIZUOHAODIAOPEISEGONGZUOZHIGUANZHONGYAO。

3.2.2 DA YANG

DAYANGSHIZAIDIAOPEISEJIBENWANCHENGDEJICHUSHANGJINXING，TONGCHANGYOUDAXIAOYANG、DAZHONGSHIYANGYUDASHENGCHANYANGDENG3ZHONG。

a)DAXIAOYANGSHIJIANGGEZHONGBUTONGYANSEDEXIANWEIYUANLIAO，ANYIDINGBILICHENGZHUNPEICHENGYIDINGZHILIANG(YIBANWEI100 g)SISONGHOUZHUCENGPUKAI、JUNYUNHOU，ANYIDINGDEGONGYISHANGCHEFANGCHENGSUOYAOQIUDESHAYANG，RANHOUZAIYUANJISHANGZHICHENGZHANGYUE30 cmHANBUYUBIAOZHUNYANGDUIZHAO，BINGXUFANFUDIAOZHENGDUOCI，QUEBAODADAOYUBIAOZHUNYANGSEGUANGDUIZHAO4JIYISHANG。DAXIAOYANGYINTOURUXIANWEIYUANLIAOHENSHAO，YAOJINGGENGXIZUO，GUDAXIAOYANGGUOCHENGZHONGBIXUYAOQIUCAOZUORENYUANGUIFANCAOZUOCHENGXU，BAOKUOCHENGLIAO、SILIAO、HUNLIAO、WEILIAO、QINGLI、FANGSHAZHIBU(BIAOYANG)DENG，DACHUXIAOYANGJINLIANGNENGDADAOSHEJIYAOQIU。

b)DAZHONGSHIYANGSHIANTOULIAOBILICHENGLIANGGEZHONGYANSEXIANWEI1 kg，JINGSHOUGONGSISONGHOUCONGSHUMIANJIHOUBUYONGRENGONGWEIRUZHICHENGSHENGTIAO，RANHOUZAIBINGTIAOJISHANGJINGDUOCIBINGHEZHICHENGSHUTIAO，ZUIHOUJIANGSHUTIAOJINGGUOCUSHAHUOZHIJIEWEIRUFANGSHAJIFANGCHENGSHAYANG，NENGKUAISUFANYINGSHIFANGYANGPINYUSHEJIYANGHUOKEHULAIYANGDEZHIJIECHAYI，HAOSHIDUAN、XIAOLVGAO，YIBANZAIDAYANGCHEJIANSHIFANGJITAISHANGJINXING。

c)DASHENGCHANYANGSHIZHIZAISHENGCHANCHEJIANLIYONGXIANYOUDEFANGSHASHEBEI(ERFEIXIAOYANGJI)CAIYONGZHENGCHANGSHENGCHANSHIDESUOYOUCAOZUOFANGFAHEGONGYISHEDINGFANGZHISHENGCHANYANGSHA，ZUOWEISHENGCHANQIANDEDAYANG。WEILEHUODEJUYOUDAIBIAOXINGDESHENGCHANYANG，TOULIAODESHULIANGYAODUOBINGYAOGUIFANCAOZUO。DASHENGCHANYANGZUIGUANJIANDESHIHUNMIANYUBINGTIAODEHUNSEDEJUNYUNXING，XUYAOTONGGUODUOCISHIYANHOUQUEDINGZUIJIAFANGAN。RUHUNMIANGONGXUMUQIANYOURENGONGHUNMIAN，ZHUANYONGJIQIHUNMIANJIJINGGUOERDAOQINGHUASHEBEIDENGHUNMIANFANGFA，GEYOUYOUQUEDIAN。YINGGENJUSHENGCHANPINZHONG、SHEBEIJICHANGSUOQINGKUANGLAICAIYONGBUTONGDEHUNMIANFANGFA。

DASHENGCHANYANGGUOCHENGXUTEBIEZHUYILIANGGEZHILIANGKONGZHIDIAN：YISHIHUNMIANHOUHUNMIANDEZHILIANG，RUYUANLIAOYANSEPEIBI、HUNHEDEJUNYUNXINGDENG，GUBIXUYOUZHUANRENYANGEJIANYANBAGUAN。ERSHIZAIMODAOBINGTIAOJISHENGCHANDETIAOZIYAOJIBENSHANGFANYINGCHUZUIZHONGSHAXIANDEYANSE，CHULEFANGSHAGONGXUSHAXIANHAOSHU，NIANDUDEWEIDIAOHUIQINGWEIYINGXIANGYANSEWAI，QITAYINSUKEHULVEBUJI。

3.2.3 DUI SE

DUISESHISEFANGSHAPILIANGSHENGCHANQIANDEZUIHOUYIDAOCHENGXU。ZAIWANCHENGSHENGCHANYANGSHASHIZHIHOU，BIXUDUIYANGSHAZUOHAODUISEGONGZUO，YIZHUNQUEBIAODACHUPILIANGSHENGCHANDESEFANGSHAYINGJUYOUDEYANSE。DUISEYINGGENJUSEGUANGPINGDINGTIAOJIAN，JIEHESEGUANGPINGDINGSHICUOSHIYINGXIANGYINSULAIPINGDING，ZAISEGUANGPINGDINGZHONGYAOTEBIEGUANZHURUXIA4DIAN：

a)GENJUKEHUDEYAOQIUZHENGQUEXUANZEGUANGYUAN。

b)DUISESHIBIXUPINGSHIYANGPIN，KEJIANGYANGPINDIECHENG2CENGHUO4CENG，BIMIANYONGDANCENGDUISE。DUISESHIJINLIANGXUANZETONGPINZHONG、TONGHAOSHUSHAXIANDEBUYANG，BUTONGHAOSHUDESHAXIANYAOXUANZEBUTONGJIHAO(ZHENHAO)DEZHIJIZHIZAO，BINGSHIZHIWUBAOCHIYIDINGJINDUDUISE。

c)DUISESHIYAOJINLIANGJIANSHAODUIBICUOSHIDEYINGXIANG，XIANQUMINGDUDIDECHANPINDUISE，ZAIQUMINGDUGAODECHANPINDUISE，YIJIANSHAOLIANXUDUIBICUOSHIDEYINGXIANG。BINGZHUYIBUYANGZHENZHIWENLUYAOZAIXIANGTONGFANGXIANGFANGZHIDUIBISEGUANG，YIJIANSHAOTONGSHIDUIBICUOSHIDEYINGXIANG。

d)YAOZHONGSHIDUISESHISEGUANGJIANYANHUANJINGBUJU。JIANYANHUANJINGBAOKUOJIANYANSHIMIANJI，DUISEDELIANGDUYUFANGXIANG、SHINEIWENSHIDUKONGZHIJIDENGXIANGDEPEIZHIJIANFANGYAOQIUDENG。JIANYANSHIMIANJIYAODADAO20 m2ZUOYOU，JIANYANSHIWENSHIDUYUCHEJIANXIANGJIN。CAIGUANGFANGXIANGBIXUSHIBEIGUANGFANGXIANGBINGYAOQIUCAIGUANGCHUANGMIANJIDAYU2 m×1.5 m×2 m(ZHANG×KUAN×GAO)。AN2WANDINGXUPEI1TAIDENGXIANGLAIPEIZHIDENGXIANG。DENGXIANGYAOFANGZAIANSHILI，QIMIANJINENGRONGNA4RENYISHANGZHANLIGUANCHAFENXI。DENGXIANGXINGHAOYAOYOUTONGYIYAOQIU，OUZHOUBIAOZHUNWEIVeriVide CAC60DENGXIANG，MEIGUOBIAOZHUNYONGMacbethDENGXIANG，DENGXIANGFANGZHIGAODUWEI70～80 cm。

3.2.4 SEFANGSHAWAIGUANJIANYANBIAOZHUN

SEFANGSHAWAIGUANPINGDINGBAOKUOSEGUANGPINGDING、YANGBUDEWAIGUANPINGDING、SHAXIANWULIZHIBIAOPINGDINGJIZHONG。QIZHONGSEGUANGSECHAPINGDINGSHIZHONGDIAN，ZAIMUQIANSHANGWUKEXUEYIQILAIPINGDINGSHIYIMUGUANGWEIZHUN。YAOQIUMEIGENSHAXIANDESEGUANGZAIBIAOZHUNGUANGYUANXIANGYUBIAOYANGDESEGUANGJICHAZAI0.5JIJIYINEI，MAOSHANYONGGUXIANSEGUANGJICHAJIEJIN0JI。SEGUANGPINGDINGYOUYIWENDE，KEYONGMEINENGDASECHAJIHUOCE-7000AXINGCESEYILAICEDING。SEGUANGPINGDINGGENJUJIANCEDUSHUFENWEI3DANG，XIAOYUDENGYU0.5DANGWEIYOUDENG，JIXIANGDANGYUMUGUANGJIANYANSECHAXIAOYU0.5JI；XIAOYUDENGYU1.0DANGWEIHEGE，MUQIANXIANGDANGYUMUGUANGJIANYANSECHAWEI0.5JI；DAYU1.0DANGWEIBUHEGE，XIANGDANGYUMUGUANGJIANYANSECHADAYU0.5JI。

DIAOPEISE→DAYANG→DUISE→SEGUANGPINGDINGSHIYIXIANGSHIFENYANGEDEXITONGGONGCHENG，BIXUANGUIDINGCHENGXUGUIFANCAOZUO，CAINENGQUEBAOJINGDIAOPEISEHOUDACHUDESHAXIANYANGFUHESHEJIYANGHUOYONGHULAIYANGDEYAOQIU，WEIPILIANGTOULIAOSHENGCHANCHUANGZAOLIANGHAODETIAOJIAN。

4 结 语

SEFANGSHABA“SE”DEGAINIANRONGRUSHENGCHANQUANGUOCHENG，ZHEISHITAYUBENSESHASHENGCHANDEZUIDAQUBIE，YESHIQIHEXINJINGZHENGLISUOZAI。ERYAOSHENGCHANCHUSECAIJINGLI、SEZEJUNYUNDESHAXIAN，BIXUZAITOUCHANQIANZUOHAODIAOSEPEISEJIDAYANGDUISEDENGZHUNBEIGONGZUO，QUEBAOPILIANGSHENGCHANDESEFANGSHADADAOSHEJIHEYONGHUYAOQIU。ERYAOZUOHAODIAOPEISEYUDAYANGDUISEDENGZHUNBEIGONGZUO，BIXUYAOPEIZHIHAODIAOPEISEYUDAYANG、DUISEDENGSHEBEIYIQIYUGONGZUOCHANGSUO，BINGYAOXUANPEIPEIXUNYIPIJISHUHAO、ZERENXINQIANGDEJISHUGONGRENDUIWULAIZHUANYECONGSHIDIAOPEISE、DAXIAOYANGJIDUISEDENGGONGZUO，ZHIYOUBAZHEIJIXIANGSHENGCHANQIANDEZHUNBEIGONGZUOZUODAOWEI，CAINENGQUEBAOSHENGCHANDESHAXIANZHILIANGWENDING，YONGHUMANYI，SHICHANGSHANGJINGZHENGLIDEDAOZENGQIANG。