色纺纱生产前的调色、配色与对色相关技术探析
FABURIQI:2020-09-09 16:05
1 色纺纱调色、配色与对色的目的及其重要性
SEFANGSHAQUBIERANSESHA(PIAORANSHA)DEHEXINJINGZHENGLI,ZAIYUBUTONGYANSEDEXIANWEIHUNHEHOUCHANSHENGDEHUASEXIAOYING。TABA“SE”DEGAINIANRONGRUDAOZHENGGESHENGCHANZHONG,YINCIGAOHAODIAOSEPEISEYUDUISEGONGZUOJIUCHENGWEISHENGCHANSEFANGSHADEZHONGYAOHUANJIE。SEFANGSHACHANGDEDIAOSEPEISEBUTONGYURANSECHANGDEDIAOSEPEISE,SEFANGSHACHANGDEPEISETONGCHANGSHIZHIXUANQUYIXIEYOUSEXIANWEI,CHUDINGYIDINGBILI(PEIFANG)ZUOCHENGXIAOYANG,DADAOYUMUBIAOYANGPIN(BIAOYANG)JIBENXIANGSIDEGUOCHENG;SEFANGSHACHANGDEDIAOSETONGCHANGSHIZHIGENJUZUOCHULAIDEYANGPINYUBIAOYANGZHIJIANDEYANSECHAJU,DIAOZHENGGESEXIANWEIZHIJIANDEBILI(PEIFANG)ZAIJINXINGSHIYANG,ZHUBUJIEJINBIAOYANGYANSEDEGUOCHENG。
CONGSHIPEISEDIAOSEGONGZUODERENYUANDOUYOUTONGYANGDEGANSHOU,DUISESHIDACHUDEXIAOYANGYUBIAOYANGDEYANSEZHINENGZUODAOXIANGJINHUOWUXIANJIEJIN,SEGUANGZUODAOYIMOYIYANGSHIWANQUANBUKENENGDE[1],JISHISHITONGPIYUANLIAOQIANHOUERCITOULIAOSHENGCHAN,YANSEYEHUIYOUYIDINGCHAYI,DANCHAYIYOUDUODANI?KAORENGONGMUCENANYILIANGHUA,ZHEISHIMUQIANPEISEDIAOSEDENANDIANSUOZAI。SHIFOUNENGDADAOKEHUYAOQIU,YINMUQIANSHANGWULIANGHUADEBIAOZHUN,ZHINENGSHUOYUEJIEJINYUEHAO。ZAISHIJIDUISECAOZUOGUOCHENGZHONG,SHENGCHANQIYERUBUNENGJISHIGENJUKEHULAIYANGZUOHAODIAOPEISEYUDAHAOXIAOYANG,JIUHUIYINGXIANGTOULIAOSHENGCHANYUJIAOHUOJINDU,YINCIZUOHAOSHENGCHANQIANDEDIAOPEISEYUDAHAOXIAOYANGDUIHAOSESHIYIXIANGSHIFENZHONGYAODEZHUNBEIGONGZUO。
CIWAI,ZAISEFANGSHAYANSEKAIFAGUOCHENGZHONG,DIAOSEYUPEISEHAISHIYIXIANGCHUANGXINXINGGONGZUO。FUZHUANGXINGYEMEINIANDOUHUITUICHUBUTONGDELIUXINGSEQUSHI,GUONEIDAXINGSEFANGSHAQIYEYEHUIDINGQIFABUSEFANGSHADELIUXINGSEQUSHI。RUGUOSEFANGSHASHENGCHANQIYENENGJINGENSEFANGSHALIUXINGQUSHI,ZUOHAOXUANSEYUDIAOPEISEGONGZUO,DIAOSE、PEISERENYUANNENGJISHIZHUAZHULIUXINGSEDEYAOSU,DIAOPEICHULINGKEHUMANYIDESECAI,JIANGHUIJIQIYEDAILAILIRUNKONGJIANDETIGAO。
CONGSHANGSHUFENXIKEZHI,ZUOHAOSEFANGSHASHENGCHANQIANDEDIAOSEPEISEYUDUISEDAYANGGONGZUOJIZAISEFANGSHASHENGCHANZHONGSUOJUZHONGYAODIWEI。GUGUONEISEFANGSHASHENGCHANDEGUGANQIYERUZHEJIANGSHENGDEHUAFU、BAILONG,SHANDONGSHENGDERUYIJITUANDENGDOUSHIFENZHONGSHIZHEIXIANGGONGZUO[2],PEIBEIXIANJINDEDIAOPEISEYUDUISESHEBEIYIQIJIZHUANYEDEDIAOPEISEYUDAYANGDUIRENYUAN,SHEZHIZHUANMENDEDAYANGCHEJIAN,YIQUEBAODIAOPEISEYUDAYANGDUISEGONGZUOZHUNQUE、JISHIWUCHACUO。DUIYANSEPANDUANZHUNQUE,MIAOSHUZHUNQUE,PEIDUIZHUNQUE,ZESEFANGSHASHENGCHANZHONGYIDABANDEJISHUNANTIYIJINGJIEJUE。
2 色纺纱的调色与配色原理
2.1 YANSESANYAOSU
SEFANGSHASHENGCHANYAOZHONGSHIZUOHAO“SE”DEWENZHANG,YEJIUSHIXIANWEIRANSESELAODUYAOHAO,PICIJIANYANSEYAOWENDINGYIZHI,RANCHUDEYANSEYAOJINGDESHISHANG。ERYAOZUODAO“LAO、ZHUN、HAO”DEYAOQIU,PEISEYUDIAOSESHISEFANGSHASHENGCHANDEZHONGYAOQIANTI。ERDIAOPEISEDEGUANJIANSHIYAODUIGEZHONGYOUSEXIANWEISECAIDEZHENGQUEPANDING。SUIRANDIAOPEISEDEFANGFAYOUDUOZHONG,DANQIGUILVSHIXIANGTONGDE,JITONGGUOSEXIANG、MINGDU、CHUNDUSANZHEZHIJIANDEZONGHEXINGDEDUIBIYUDIAOHEDEYUNYONG[3]。
SANYAOSUSHIXIANGHULIANXIDE,SEXIANGJUEDINGYANSEDEZHI,ERLIANGDUHECHUNDUBIAOSHIDESHILIANGDEBIANHUA,RENHEYANSEZHIYAOQUEDINGLETADESEXIANG、CHUNDUHELIANGDU,JIUKEYIJINGQUEDEQUEDINGTASHISHENMESE,TANGRUOYANSESANGEYAOSUZHONGYIGEYAOSUBIANHUALE,NEIMEZHEIGEYANSEYEJIUBIANHUALE。
2.2 SECAIDEDUIBICUOSHI
YOUYUHUANJINGDEBUTONGJISHIJUESHANGDECHAYI,DIAOSE、PEISERENYUANDUIGUANCHADEWUTIJINGCHANGHUIFASHENGCUOSHIBINGZUOCHUCUOWUDEPANDUAN。YINCIZAIDIAOSEYUPEISESHI,YINGKAOLVDUISECAICUOSHIYINSU。CUOSHIYOULIANGZHONGXIANXIANG,YIZHONGSHIDUIBICUOSHIXIANXIANG,ZAIGUANCHALIANGZHONGJIYISHANGBUTONGDEBINGLIESESHI,HUIFAXIANBINGLIESEZHIJIANSEXIANG、MINGDUHUOCHUNDUFASHENGBIANHUA,YIGEYANSEDESANYAOSUDEBIANHUA,ZAIERGESESHANGTONGSHIXIANSHICHULAI,CONGERCHANSHENGTONGSHIDUIBICUOSHIXIANXIANG。LINGYIZHONGSHILIANXUDUIBICUOSHIXIANXIANG,SHIXIANDUIYIZHONGYANSEZHUSHIPIANKEHOU,XUNSUBASHIXIANZHUANYIDAOLINGYIZHONGYANSE,ZEGANDAOGAISEBIANDELVEDAIXIANJIANMOUSEDEBUSE,JIXIANKANHONGSEHOUZAIKANHUANGSE,ZEHUANGSEBIANCHENGHUANGLVSE,ZHEIJIUSHILIANXUDUIBICUOSHI,SHIYOUYUSHIJUESHENGLIPILAOSUOYINQI。
YOUYUMUQIANZAISEFANGSHASHENGCHANZHONGDUOSHUQIYEHAISHIYILAIRENGONGSHILILAIJINXINGDIAOSE、PEISEYUDUISEGONGZUO,DUISECAIPANDUANDECUOSHISHANGWUFABIMIAN,GUYAOTIGAODIAOSE、PEISEDEJINGDUYUKEXUEXING,QIFAZHANFANGXIANGSHICAIYONGJISUANJIPEISEXITONG[4],KEKUAISUTIGONGDUOZHONGPEISEFANGAN,TIGAOPEISEXIAOLVYUSHICHANGFANYINGNENGLI,JIANGDIDUIPEISERENYUANJINGYANDEYILAIXING。
3 色纺纱打样与对色的程序与方法
3.1 SEFANGSHADAYANGYUDUISEDEMUDE
SEFANGSHADAYANGSHIJIANGBUTONGYANSEDEXIANWEIYUANLIAO,GENJUSHEJIYANGHUOKEHULAIYANGANYIDINGBILIHUNHEDIAOPEIHOU,ZAIANYIDINGDEFANGSHAGONGYILIUCHENGFANGZHICHUSHAXIANXIAOYANG,ZUIHOUTONGGUOZHIJIZHICHUPIBU(XIAOYANG),FANGBIANYUSHEJIYANG、KEHULAIYANGDUIBIPINGDING,RUYOUCHAYIZAITONGGUOPEISELAIDIAOZHENG,ZHIDAOXIANGFUWEIZHI。YINCI,FANGSHADAYANGYUDUISEDEMUDESHIZHITONGGUOYUSHEJIYANGHUOKEHULAIYANGJINXINGDUIBI、PINGDINGYANSEYUMUBIAOSESHIFOUXIANGFU,BINGGUANCHASHAXIANDEZHILIANGSHIFOUNENGMANZUSHEJIYUKEHUDEYAOQIU,JIANSHAOMANGMUSHENGCHANDAILAIDEYUANLIAOYUSHENGCHANLANGFEI,CONGERSHIXIANCHENGBENDEKONGZHIYUSHENGCHANXIAOLVDETIGAO。
3.2 SEFANGSHADAYANGYUDUISEDECHENGXU
3.2.1 PEI SE
SEFANGSHADAYANGZHIQIANBIXUWANCHENGPEISEGONGZUO,PEISEYOUANSEKAPEISEYUANKEHULAIYANGPEISELIANGZHONG[5]。
a)ANSEKAPEISEJIAOJIANDANFANGBIAN,YINWEIDUOSHUSEFANGSHASHENGCHANQIYE,TONGGUOJIAOZHANGSHIJIANSHENGCHANDOUJILEILEYIDINGKEYONGLAIPEISEDESHUJUKU,BINGJIANLIGEZHONGSEKADANGAN,KEHUZHIYAOGENJUSEKAQUEDINGSEHAO,JIUKEANSEBISHENGCHANCHUKEHUYAOQIUDEXIAOYANG,FANGBIANRANGKEHUQUERENDUISE。
b)ANKEHULAIYANGPEISEJIUBIJIAOFUZA,WANGWANGBUYIDINGNENGCONGSEKASHANGZHAODAOXIANGTONGDESEHAO。GUBIXUXIANYAODUIKEHULAIYANGJINXINGZIXIFENXI。RULAIYANGSHISHAXIAN,YAOXIANCHAICHENGSANXIANWEI,BINGFENXIYOUJIZHONGSEXIANWEIZUCHENG。RULAIYANGSHISEZHIMIANLIAO,YAOXIANJIANGMIANLIAOZHIJIEFENJIECHENGSHAXIAN,ZAIJIANGSHAXIANFENJIECHENGXIANWEI,RANHOUQUEDINGQIXIANWEIDEZUFENYUYANSE,RUGUOFENJIEHOUDEGEZHONGSEXIANWEIZAIXIANYOUPEISEKUYIYOU,JIUKEZHIJIEQULAIPEISE;RUOMEIYOU,JIUXUXIANJINXINGXIANWEIRANSE,XIANWEIRANSESHIYAOZHUYIDESHISEGUANGYULAIYANGSEGUANGYIZHI。ZAISEFANGSHASHENGCHANZHONGPEISEBILIJIUSHIGEZHONGSEXIANWEIZUFENYUZHENGGEPEISEZUFENDEGANZHONGBAIFENBI,YEKECHENGWEISHIYIZHONGFENSECHENGZHONGFAPEISE。
PEISEYUDIAOSESHIYIXIANGJISHUXINGJIAOQIANGDEGONGZUO,XUYAOBUDUANDIJILEIJINGYAN,YOUQISHICONGSHIDIAOSEPEISERENYUANMUGUANGDEXIAOZHENGYUTONGYI,DUIZUOHAODIAOPEISEGONGZUOZHIGUANZHONGYAO。
3.2.2 DA YANG
DAYANGSHIZAIDIAOPEISEJIBENWANCHENGDEJICHUSHANGJINXING,TONGCHANGYOUDAXIAOYANG、DAZHONGSHIYANGYUDASHENGCHANYANGDENG3ZHONG。
a)DAXIAOYANGSHIJIANGGEZHONGBUTONGYANSEDEXIANWEIYUANLIAO,ANYIDINGBILICHENGZHUNPEICHENGYIDINGZHILIANG(YIBANWEI100 g)SISONGHOUZHUCENGPUKAI、JUNYUNHOU,ANYIDINGDEGONGYISHANGCHEFANGCHENGSUOYAOQIUDESHAYANG,RANHOUZAIYUANJISHANGZHICHENGZHANGYUE30 cmHANBUYUBIAOZHUNYANGDUIZHAO,BINGXUFANFUDIAOZHENGDUOCI,QUEBAODADAOYUBIAOZHUNYANGSEGUANGDUIZHAO4JIYISHANG。DAXIAOYANGYINTOURUXIANWEIYUANLIAOHENSHAO,YAOJINGGENGXIZUO,GUDAXIAOYANGGUOCHENGZHONGBIXUYAOQIUCAOZUORENYUANGUIFANCAOZUOCHENGXU,BAOKUOCHENGLIAO、SILIAO、HUNLIAO、WEILIAO、QINGLI、FANGSHAZHIBU(BIAOYANG)DENG,DACHUXIAOYANGJINLIANGNENGDADAOSHEJIYAOQIU。
b)DAZHONGSHIYANGSHIANTOULIAOBILICHENGLIANGGEZHONGYANSEXIANWEI1 kg,JINGSHOUGONGSISONGHOUCONGSHUMIANJIHOUBUYONGRENGONGWEIRUZHICHENGSHENGTIAO,RANHOUZAIBINGTIAOJISHANGJINGDUOCIBINGHEZHICHENGSHUTIAO,ZUIHOUJIANGSHUTIAOJINGGUOCUSHAHUOZHIJIEWEIRUFANGSHAJIFANGCHENGSHAYANG,NENGKUAISUFANYINGSHIFANGYANGPINYUSHEJIYANGHUOKEHULAIYANGDEZHIJIECHAYI,HAOSHIDUAN、XIAOLVGAO,YIBANZAIDAYANGCHEJIANSHIFANGJITAISHANGJINXING。
c)DASHENGCHANYANGSHIZHIZAISHENGCHANCHEJIANLIYONGXIANYOUDEFANGSHASHEBEI(ERFEIXIAOYANGJI)CAIYONGZHENGCHANGSHENGCHANSHIDESUOYOUCAOZUOFANGFAHEGONGYISHEDINGFANGZHISHENGCHANYANGSHA,ZUOWEISHENGCHANQIANDEDAYANG。WEILEHUODEJUYOUDAIBIAOXINGDESHENGCHANYANG,TOULIAODESHULIANGYAODUOBINGYAOGUIFANCAOZUO。DASHENGCHANYANGZUIGUANJIANDESHIHUNMIANYUBINGTIAODEHUNSEDEJUNYUNXING,XUYAOTONGGUODUOCISHIYANHOUQUEDINGZUIJIAFANGAN。RUHUNMIANGONGXUMUQIANYOURENGONGHUNMIAN,ZHUANYONGJIQIHUNMIANJIJINGGUOERDAOQINGHUASHEBEIDENGHUNMIANFANGFA,GEYOUYOUQUEDIAN。YINGGENJUSHENGCHANPINZHONG、SHEBEIJICHANGSUOQINGKUANGLAICAIYONGBUTONGDEHUNMIANFANGFA。
DASHENGCHANYANGGUOCHENGXUTEBIEZHUYILIANGGEZHILIANGKONGZHIDIAN:YISHIHUNMIANHOUHUNMIANDEZHILIANG,RUYUANLIAOYANSEPEIBI、HUNHEDEJUNYUNXINGDENG,GUBIXUYOUZHUANRENYANGEJIANYANBAGUAN。ERSHIZAIMODAOBINGTIAOJISHENGCHANDETIAOZIYAOJIBENSHANGFANYINGCHUZUIZHONGSHAXIANDEYANSE,CHULEFANGSHAGONGXUSHAXIANHAOSHU,NIANDUDEWEIDIAOHUIQINGWEIYINGXIANGYANSEWAI,QITAYINSUKEHULVEBUJI。
3.2.3 DUI SE
DUISESHISEFANGSHAPILIANGSHENGCHANQIANDEZUIHOUYIDAOCHENGXU。ZAIWANCHENGSHENGCHANYANGSHASHIZHIHOU,BIXUDUIYANGSHAZUOHAODUISEGONGZUO,YIZHUNQUEBIAODACHUPILIANGSHENGCHANDESEFANGSHAYINGJUYOUDEYANSE。DUISEYINGGENJUSEGUANGPINGDINGTIAOJIAN,JIEHESEGUANGPINGDINGSHICUOSHIYINGXIANGYINSULAIPINGDING,ZAISEGUANGPINGDINGZHONGYAOTEBIEGUANZHURUXIA4DIAN:
a)GENJUKEHUDEYAOQIUZHENGQUEXUANZEGUANGYUAN。
b)DUISESHIBIXUPINGSHIYANGPIN,KEJIANGYANGPINDIECHENG2CENGHUO4CENG,BIMIANYONGDANCENGDUISE。DUISESHIJINLIANGXUANZETONGPINZHONG、TONGHAOSHUSHAXIANDEBUYANG,BUTONGHAOSHUDESHAXIANYAOXUANZEBUTONGJIHAO(ZHENHAO)DEZHIJIZHIZAO,BINGSHIZHIWUBAOCHIYIDINGJINDUDUISE。
c)DUISESHIYAOJINLIANGJIANSHAODUIBICUOSHIDEYINGXIANG,XIANQUMINGDUDIDECHANPINDUISE,ZAIQUMINGDUGAODECHANPINDUISE,YIJIANSHAOLIANXUDUIBICUOSHIDEYINGXIANG。BINGZHUYIBUYANGZHENZHIWENLUYAOZAIXIANGTONGFANGXIANGFANGZHIDUIBISEGUANG,YIJIANSHAOTONGSHIDUIBICUOSHIDEYINGXIANG。
d)YAOZHONGSHIDUISESHISEGUANGJIANYANHUANJINGBUJU。JIANYANHUANJINGBAOKUOJIANYANSHIMIANJI,DUISEDELIANGDUYUFANGXIANG、SHINEIWENSHIDUKONGZHIJIDENGXIANGDEPEIZHIJIANFANGYAOQIUDENG。JIANYANSHIMIANJIYAODADAO20 m2ZUOYOU,JIANYANSHIWENSHIDUYUCHEJIANXIANGJIN。CAIGUANGFANGXIANGBIXUSHIBEIGUANGFANGXIANGBINGYAOQIUCAIGUANGCHUANGMIANJIDAYU2 m×1.5 m×2 m(ZHANG×KUAN×GAO)。AN2WANDINGXUPEI1TAIDENGXIANGLAIPEIZHIDENGXIANG。DENGXIANGYAOFANGZAIANSHILI,QIMIANJINENGRONGNA4RENYISHANGZHANLIGUANCHAFENXI。DENGXIANGXINGHAOYAOYOUTONGYIYAOQIU,OUZHOUBIAOZHUNWEIVeriVide CAC60DENGXIANG,MEIGUOBIAOZHUNYONGMacbethDENGXIANG,DENGXIANGFANGZHIGAODUWEI70~80 cm。
3.2.4 SEFANGSHAWAIGUANJIANYANBIAOZHUN
SEFANGSHAWAIGUANPINGDINGBAOKUOSEGUANGPINGDING、YANGBUDEWAIGUANPINGDING、SHAXIANWULIZHIBIAOPINGDINGJIZHONG。QIZHONGSEGUANGSECHAPINGDINGSHIZHONGDIAN,ZAIMUQIANSHANGWUKEXUEYIQILAIPINGDINGSHIYIMUGUANGWEIZHUN。YAOQIUMEIGENSHAXIANDESEGUANGZAIBIAOZHUNGUANGYUANXIANGYUBIAOYANGDESEGUANGJICHAZAI0.5JIJIYINEI,MAOSHANYONGGUXIANSEGUANGJICHAJIEJIN0JI。SEGUANGPINGDINGYOUYIWENDE,KEYONGMEINENGDASECHAJIHUOCE-7000AXINGCESEYILAICEDING。SEGUANGPINGDINGGENJUJIANCEDUSHUFENWEI3DANG,XIAOYUDENGYU0.5DANGWEIYOUDENG,JIXIANGDANGYUMUGUANGJIANYANSECHAXIAOYU0.5JI;XIAOYUDENGYU1.0DANGWEIHEGE,MUQIANXIANGDANGYUMUGUANGJIANYANSECHAWEI0.5JI;DAYU1.0DANGWEIBUHEGE,XIANGDANGYUMUGUANGJIANYANSECHADAYU0.5JI。
DIAOPEISE→DAYANG→DUISE→SEGUANGPINGDINGSHIYIXIANGSHIFENYANGEDEXITONGGONGCHENG,BIXUANGUIDINGCHENGXUGUIFANCAOZUO,CAINENGQUEBAOJINGDIAOPEISEHOUDACHUDESHAXIANYANGFUHESHEJIYANGHUOYONGHULAIYANGDEYAOQIU,WEIPILIANGTOULIAOSHENGCHANCHUANGZAOLIANGHAODETIAOJIAN。
4 结 语
SEFANGSHABA“SE”DEGAINIANRONGRUSHENGCHANQUANGUOCHENG,ZHEISHITAYUBENSESHASHENGCHANDEZUIDAQUBIE,YESHIQIHEXINJINGZHENGLISUOZAI。ERYAOSHENGCHANCHUSECAIJINGLI、SEZEJUNYUNDESHAXIAN,BIXUZAITOUCHANQIANZUOHAODIAOSEPEISEJIDAYANGDUISEDENGZHUNBEIGONGZUO,QUEBAOPILIANGSHENGCHANDESEFANGSHADADAOSHEJIHEYONGHUYAOQIU。ERYAOZUOHAODIAOPEISEYUDAYANGDUISEDENGZHUNBEIGONGZUO,BIXUYAOPEIZHIHAODIAOPEISEYUDAYANG、DUISEDENGSHEBEIYIQIYUGONGZUOCHANGSUO,BINGYAOXUANPEIPEIXUNYIPIJISHUHAO、ZERENXINQIANGDEJISHUGONGRENDUIWULAIZHUANYECONGSHIDIAOPEISE、DAXIAOYANGJIDUISEDENGGONGZUO,ZHIYOUBAZHEIJIXIANGSHENGCHANQIANDEZHUNBEIGONGZUOZUODAOWEI,CAINENGQUEBAOSHENGCHANDESHAXIANZHILIANGWENDING,YONGHUMANYI,SHICHANGSHANGJINGZHENGLIDEDAOZENGQIANG。